Review: Bistango Restaurant, New York

Bistango serves classic Italian food that somehow isn’t heavy, but light and crisp, even the eggplant parmigiana. It’s a cut above most of the New York City theater-district restaurants, and a few blocks east, at 145 E. 50th Street, in the Kimberly Hotel.

The uniform excellence of salads, appetizers, entrees and desserts distinguish Bistango from competitors. The restaurant is vegetarian-friendly and serves gluten-free dishes, without coming off as overly health-conscious. It’s just part of what they do.

Prices are in line with, or slightly below, many city restaurants. See website. So it’s not cheap by any means, and the wine list starts at around $50. The two-course pre-theater menu is $35.99, an option worth considering.

Entrees start at $19 for cauliflower orecchiette, and there are several good options for under $25. The most expensive were veal, at $44, and New York Strip steak, $46. Flatbread pizzas cost $14 to $19. The orecchiette and eggplant are highly recommended by our party. All four members were happy with their choices; the other entrees were cavatelli with sausage and rigatoni bolognese.

Service is invariably excellent. Helpful and ready, not obtrusive. Our thanks to Milosh and his associates. The atmosphere is pleasant, the noise level is reasonable. Reservations are recommended.

Bistango, 145 E. 50th Street at the Kimberly Hotel, a couple blocks east of St. Patrick’s Cathedral. See website link above. There is also a Bistango at 29th Street, I haven’t been to that one.

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